The Development of the Shoe Industry From 1900 until 1940s, approximately 400 shoe manufacturers were operating in New England by 1985, only 10 percent remained. Despite the market pressures, Murrayhill remained profitable and had even diversified its distribution channels by establishing direct mail cataloging in the late 1970s. Murrayhill survived by producing a premium-quality product that was difficult to duplicate and that appealed to a narrow market segment willing to pay high prices for Murrayhill quality. As fashion became a more important component of men’s shoe purchasing behavior and casual styles became more popular; the company broadened its product line to include several fashionable and light-weight styles that retained the famous Murrayhill quality . (9) In 1985, the men’s premium shoe market was considered to include brands with a price range of $75 or higher. Murrayhill, Inc. Johnston ＆ Murphy, E. T. Wright ＆ Company, Alien Edmonds, and Florsheim were the major domestic manufacturers producing premium shoes. Measuring market share within the industry was difficult because so many of the manufacturers were private companies, like Murrayhill. (10) Alien Edmonds, headquartered in Wisconsin, relied primarily on nonproprietary retail outlets for its distribution. Its advertising was sizable, with expenditures in $1 million to $ 2 million range. (11) Alien Edmonds also operated a small direct mail catalog business, the majority of whose costs were handled by Edmonds’s retail accounts. E. T. Wright ＆ Company, headquartered in Massachusetts, operated an extensive direct mail business and, like Murrayhill, relied on non-proprietary distribution. (12) Florsheim’s product line covered several price points, including those in the premium market. Florsheim was, by far, the strongest competitor, with an estimated market share of 18 percent and both non-proprietary retail distribution channels. Hanover, a medium-priced shoe manufacturer, also was noted for its direct distribution system. (13) Imports accounted for a 50 percent share of the total men’s shoe market. Bally, the strongest competitor, was the leading imported brand in this market before 1975 and maintained a market share of close to 25 percent at that time. By 1985, other imported brands included Baker Benjes, Cole Ham, Ferragamo, Bruno Magli, and Church’s. (14) Most of the imported brands were lighter in weight and designed to appeal to more fashion-conscious consumers. A. The continued labor intensity of shoe manufacturing made the industry vulnerable to lower priced imports. B. In addition, these companies were not always in direct competition because distribution channels differed. C. Despite the market pressures, Murrayhill remained profitable and had even diversified its distribution channels by establishing direct mail cataloging in the late 1970s. D. Johnston ＆ Murrayhill, on the other hand, operated proprietary retail outlets and experimented in the mail order business for both men’s and ladies’ premium shoes. E. Most of this was spent promoting brand name awareness to consumers. F. The company owned over 100 proprietary retail stores, operated a successful mail order business, and produced private label footwear forJ.C. Penney ＆ Sears, Roebuck department stores. G. The imported products differed from the domestic premium brands, however. H. Nonetheless, Murrayhill faced several strong domestic competitors and unrelenting price competition from imports.
The Development of the Shoe Industry
From 1900 until 1940s, approximately 400 shoe manufacturers were operating in New England by 1985, only 10 percent remained. Despite the market pressures, Murrayhill remained profitable and had even diversified its distribution channels by establishing direct mail cataloging in the late 1970s. Murrayhill survived by producing a premium-quality product that was difficult to duplicate and that appealed to a narrow market segment willing to pay high prices for Murrayhill quality. As fashion became a more important component of men’s shoe purchasing behavior and casual styles became more popular; the company broadened its product line to include several fashionable and light-weight styles that retained the famous Murrayhill quality . (9) In 1985, the men’s premium shoe market was considered to include brands with a price range of $75 or higher. Murrayhill, Inc. Johnston ＆ Murphy, E. T. Wright ＆ Company, Alien Edmonds, and Florsheim were the major domestic manufacturers producing premium shoes.
Measuring market share within the industry was difficult because so many of the manufacturers were private companies, like Murrayhill. (10) Alien Edmonds, headquartered in Wisconsin, relied primarily on nonproprietary retail outlets for its distribution. Its advertising was sizable, with expenditures in $1 million to $ 2 million range. (11) Alien Edmonds also operated a small direct mail catalog business, the majority of whose costs were handled by Edmonds’s retail accounts. E. T. Wright ＆ Company, headquartered in Massachusetts, operated an extensive direct mail business and, like Murrayhill, relied on non-proprietary distribution. (12) Florsheim’s product line covered several price points, including those in the premium market. Florsheim was, by far, the strongest competitor, with an estimated market share of 18 percent and both non-proprietary retail distribution channels. Hanover, a medium-priced shoe manufacturer, also was noted for its direct distribution system. (13) Imports accounted for a 50 percent share of the total men’s shoe market. Bally, the strongest competitor, was the leading imported brand in this market before 1975 and maintained a market share of close to 25 percent at that time. By 1985, other imported brands included Baker Benjes, Cole Ham, Ferragamo, Bruno Magli, and Church’s. (14) Most of the imported brands were lighter in weight and designed to appeal to more fashion-conscious consumers.
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