At the end of last week, Bodega Aurrer6, a Mexican subsidiary of the world’s biggest retailer, Wal-Mart, opened a new store in the village of San Juan Teotihuacan, just north of Mexico City. Normally, such an event would cause little stir. Wal-Mart is already Mexico’s biggest retailer too. And its shops seem to be very well welcomed by its millions of bargain-hungry customers. But this particular opening was, in fact, the culmination of months of protests, legal actions and hunger strikes by those determined to stop it. The reason is the location. Just 2.5km (1.6 miles) away is the ancient city of Teotihuacan, probably Mexico’s most famous archaeological site. Amongst other attractions, it boasts the third-largest (by volume) pyramid in the world. For many Mexicans, the ancient site, abandoned by its mysterious inhabitants centuries before the Spanish conquerors arrived, remains the ultimate symbol of Mexican identity and nationhood. Thousands troop up to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun to celebrate the summer solstice (夏至). To them, the idea of having a Wal-Mart next door is unbearable. In the words of Homero Aridjis, a writer and one of the leading opponents, "it is like driving the stake of globalization into the heart of old Mexico." The controversy is only the latest in a string of protesters’ attempts to save Mexican culture from what they see as a creeping menace. They won a famous victory by blocking a McDonald’s restaurant from opening in the main square of the pretty southern colonial town of Oaxaca. But this time they were on much thinner ground. For a start, Wal-Mart went through all the appropriate regulatory rules, even getting permission from the Paris-based International Council on Monuments and Sites, which judged that the store would cause no harm to the nearby ruins. A small stone platform was indeed found during construction of the new car park, but was preserved. Just as importantly, the claim that the new store spoils the famous view from the top of the Pyramid of the Sun is clearly incorrect, as anyone who cares to get to the top can testify. The problem is not so much in seeing the Wal-Mart as in taking pains to distinguish it from the 30-odd other ugly buildings that litter the surrounding countryside. To the diehards (顽固分子), the issue counts more than the .view. But neither mattered much to the hundreds of locals who queued up for the opening, delighted to be freed of the small and expensive local shops. Despite a legal case pending (悬而未决的) against Wal-Mart and local officials, brought by an irritated local left-wing politician, this is one battle that the American retailer has probably won.